“Jeepers Peepers: Making Small Eyes Look Bigger” Monday Minute Makeup Lesson

01Dec09

Monday Minute Makeup Lesson

“Jeepers Peepers: Making Small Eyes Look Bigger”

Writing a “Monday Minute Makeup Lesson” for eyes is stressing me out.  There are a bazillion different eye shapes, and almost as many ways to apply.  Recently I’ve seen lots of eye shadow kits that come with instructions; some with labels on each color (lid, crease, outer corner, etc.), some with recorded instructions, and even a makeup player that plays instructional videos.  Thats helpful and all, but how do you know the instructions are appropriate to your eye shape, size, width, color, and skin tone?  Wellll. . . (drumroll) thats where a makeup artist can help!

Okay, I know this seems like shameless self promotion, but I’m serious.  Yesterday, I met with a fabulous lady named Michelle for a makeup lesson.  Her main concern was making her small eyes appear larger.  She had been applying her shadows the way a magazine instructed, which defined and shaded her lids, but ended up closing them in and making them look even smaller.  The last thing I want to do is write a blog that steers people wrong!

So here is the eye application I taught Michelle.  If your eyes are small, the crease of your eye is flat and closer to your lash line, but further from your brow, this is one to try.  Just don’t forget my disclaimer before my lesson today (and the rest of the lessons):  these techniques are great to read, learn, try on, and practice.  But to really see what’s right for your individual features, a personalized lesson is best. . . and not just for my job security (wink).

Five steps to make small eyes appear larger:

1. conceal

Use a concealer slightly lighter than your skin tone. Conceal under eyes, and also over the entire eyelid.  This will cover any natural darkness that would make the area look recessed and the eye smaller.

2. brows

A professional can shape your brow to make your eyes appear bigger.  Make sure to find one who is trained to understand face shapes, not just hair removal.  I send my clients to Nicki Wenz in Denver.  If you already have a great shape, then when you fill them in, emphasize the heigth of brow.  To do this, fill in the top part of arch, making it appear higher, and bottom part of the inner corner, making it start as low as possible.

3. line

Using a flesh toner liner (some use white; I think thats too harsh) and highlight the sideways “V” at your inner corner.  Next, pull town gently on your lower lashes and use the light liner to line your inner rim.  Choose a subtle brown color of eyeliner (light brown for fair skin, dark brown for deep skin) and line below the lashes.  The line should start at the outer corner and end 2/3rds of the way in (thats underneath the inner edge of the iris).  Keep the line on the wider side, then smudge it so it is soft and diffused.

This next step is kind of advanced, but with practice, you can master it.  With the brown liner, draw a line just above your crease, following the curve of your eye.  The easiest way to do this is to draw with your eye open.  This way the line wont disappear into your existing crease.  Essentially you are creating a new crease, making it higher and rounder than your natural one.  Blend this line down to the natural crease, making it look soft and shaded instead of a sharp line.  Notice that we are not lining above the lashes.  On very small eyes this would close them in more.

4. shade

Choose a shadow that is skin toned or slightly lighter (vanilla or champagne for fair skin, gold or caramel for medium skin, chocolate or copper for deep skin).  Apply the shadow from lash line to crease.  Make sure its not darker than your skin tone!

Then, using a shadow in a matching brown hue, go over the liner application below the eye and in crease.

5. highlight

Select a shimmery shadow color one shade lighter than your skin tone, and apply it below the brow & on inner corners.  Also highlight the top of cheek bone at its most prominent point.  Although it seems strange to apply eye shadow to your cheeks, this will draw more attention to your eyes.  Make sure to blend!

6. lashes

Finally, make your eyes look bigger by applying a lengthening mascara.  Michelle was lucky to have curly lashes, but if your lashes grow straight, get an eyelash curler and curl curl curl!

Let me know how it goes, and I’ll try to stop stressing that I can’t be there to show you myself . . .

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2 Responses to ““Jeepers Peepers: Making Small Eyes Look Bigger” Monday Minute Makeup Lesson”

  1. I discovered your site when I was browsing for something else, but this page showed up at the top of Yahoo your site must be amazingly popular! Keep up the awesome job!


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